The times demand an outspoken muse. Tory Burch looked to Tracy Lord, Katharine Hepburn’s character in The Philadelphia Story, a blue blood of sharp-witted repartee and a glamorous Adrian-designed wardrobe. Hollywood doesn’t make them like Tracy anymore; Burch will have done her young fans a service if they’re compelled to watch the movie. (An informal Vogue.com poll suggests that not only have they not seen the film, they’ve likely never even heard of it—shocking, I know!) The designer is a Main Liner (or Pennsylvania native) herself, which gave this collection a charming resonance. In the days before her show, she Instagrammed a photo of her stately childhood home. “It’s about going back to my roots and doing a take on something familiar,” she said afterward.
Cue the scrolling gold TB logo—not the familiar double Ts of her famous Reva flats—on the hip of an elegant white coat. Adrian was famously fond of gilt; the bodice and arms of Hepburn’s stunning Philadelphia Story hostess dress are densely stitched with gold bullion. So there were the requisite decorative touches here—Pearly Queen shell buttons on black dresses, rhinestone bauble buttons circling the waist of a neat black jumpsuit paired with a flawlessly knotted silk blouse. But then, it really isn’t a Burch collection without such details. Hepburn’s other iconic costume was a white silk romper; while we would have loved to see Burch’s take on it, this being a Fall collection, she found more seasonable ways to synthesize what she described as Tracy’s outdoor glamour, notably zip-front Fair Isles and A-line skirts in corduroy or “Main Line plaid.” The fabulous pendant necklaces came from Burch’s own Philadelphia story; they were inspired by her father’s cigarette lighter.
New York, February 14th, 2017. Article by Nicole Phelps