Fall 2017 Ready to Wear Details
Fashion editors walk into a church, a bank, a Brooklyn greenhouse. . . No, this isn’t the start to a great fashion joke; these are locations of some of Alexander Wang’s recent fashion shows. The designer has made a habit of staging his Spring shows at Manhattan’s Pier 94, an enormous warehouse space that is often subdivided into a runway and a party area, transformed by a big reveal, the most memorable of which involved some precariously perched pole dancers. But for Fall shows, Wang brings the fashion set around New York City, finding places far and wide that are in line with his bad-boy ethos. For this season’s Fall 2017 show, the invite only reads 146th St. and Broadway. No address. No further details.
So I did what any aspiring Wang Gang member would do, took the 1 train uptown, and handicapped the likeliness of the four corners—and center—of Broadway and 146th Street as the site of Wang’s next runway.
Interior of the RKO Hamilton Theater, Harlem, New York
Abandoned RKO Hamilton Theater
A beautiful ruin that’s become a graffiti hangout, you say? Yes, the abandoned RKO Hamilton Theater ticks all the boxes for an Alexander Wang show space. It’s a classic New York landmark, has a rough-and-tumble spirit, and looks like a place that the Wang Gang might hang out after hours for one of its riotous parties. It opened in 1913 and had several lives as a performance space, movie theater, boxing hot spot, and disco until its theater was closed permanently in the aughts. Part of the lobby has been for rent for some time, and though it’s currently owned by a real estate developer, it has yet to transform into anything but a beautiful ruin.
Celebrities and editors made a long trek to Hamilton Heights to find out – and entered an abandoned theater full of Peroni kegs. Were we already at the after-party?
The Details and Atmosphere
The collection was rife with leather pants, vintage T-shirts, and oversized suiting that mixed the best of the ’80s, ’90s, and ’00s — all in a single show. As Alex does best, the palette was neutral, with bright white and deep black reigning supreme.
With pulsating techno music as the soundtrack, a black-on-black-on-black look opened the show and set the tone for nearly the entire collection, aside from some gray and silver:But the black came in various textures: Kendall Jenner in black leather pants, black jackets, and black cutout dresses – one of which mirrored Wang’s ref-hot-American-summer bikini vibes from last season.
Alex made a statement with hosiery as well, as some models were clad in tights that read “No After Party” down the leg. It is, of course, ironic, as the designer is known for his epic post-runway celebrations that have become the highlight of a party-filled fashion month. From the high-waisted skinny jeans to the sheer tops; little black dresses and printed T-shirts alike, see all the best head-turning moments below. Alexander Wang Fall 2017 Collection
Beauty, Hair, and Make Up
Alexander Wang is nothing if not committed to his own, very specific aesthetic. And over the years, we’ve often seen that reflected in an equally specific hair and makeup point of view on the Wang runway. In the past few seasons especially, the designer has been known to convince young models to chop off their hair (with some artistic guidance from hairstylist Guido Palau, of course) into dramatic, punky shags for his runway shows. That held true for the Fall 2017 show, as well — and though there were no major dye jobs with the hair this time around, a handful of models did wind up with bleached brows.
The inspiration for the hair and makeup was quintessentially Wang:
“The models just feel like a very cool gang of girls that you’d really want to hang out with; Alex’s girls are always girls you want to be with at the party,” said Palau backstage of the grungy,lived-in styles his team created.
About six of the models had gotten major cuts — most notably Cat McNeil, who chopped her long hair into a super-short bowl style. “Wang always finds some girls that are willing to go for a chop,” said Palau. “Cat was the girl who had the most drastic change. It was quite long and then we did that ode to Linda Evangelista’s haircut in the ’90s; that bold, kind of boyish, choppy look. She seems very happy.”
The other cuts were similarly short, though some had a more cleanly-groomed “barber” feel. For the remainder of the models who were able to maintain their length, Palau and his team focused on creating a rumpled, bed-head texture. “The main group of girls has piecey hair; I used Redken Wax Blast in the hair to make it clump together,” said Palau. The stylists also back-combed hair at the roots and loosely wrapped the lengths randomly around the barrel of a curling iron for an expertly fuzzy, undone effect. “It has all of those nuances of hair that’s been slept in, you’ve been dancing all night — all those kinds of things are in this girls’ hair.”
Makeup artist Diane Kendal followed that same concept — party girl who’s been out all night — for the show’s makeup look. “It’s nocturnal; they’ve been out all night partying, having a good time,” she said. After evening out models’s skin tones and bleaching some brows (“It just depends on their look. We wanted the girls to have their each individual feel,” said Kendal), the focus was lots and lots of black eyeliner. She traced a black pencil (Nars Black Moon Velvet Eyeliner) on the models’s inner water lines, and then along the outer rims of the eyes, before smudging it and swiping on a bit of black mascara. Before the models hit the runway, the makeup team added a layer of clear gloss to the models’ eyelids to further enhance the grunge vibes. And that was it — bare lips; bare cheeks.
The Front Row Celebrities
Season after season, Alexander Wang stacks his New York Fashion Week front row with the Wang Gang, a close-knit crew of stars who project effortless cool. To be a member of that particular squad calls for an unapologetic approach to life and a fearless take on hair and makeup that celebrates individuality.
The most head-turning member of Alexander Wang’s ever-growing girl squad tonight? Kylie Jenner, who stepped out with a dramatic new shag. Wang’s front row has been known to breed a subversive of-the-moment beauty, and Jenner made the most of the occasion for the designer’s show in Harlem, trading her usual extensions and sleek, chest-skimming styles for a striking shoulder-length chop and brow-sweeping micro bangs.
sources : fashionista.com , vogue.com, teenvogue.com, nymag.com