Chanel Spring 2017 Couture Details

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Chanel

Spring 2017 Couture Details and Atmosphere

By now, we know to expect the unexpected at a Chanel show. In recent seasons, Karl Lagerfeld has riffed on intimate technology, airport style, and Italian cinema,but today’s presentation had humbler beginnings: a spoon.

Of course, it wasn’t a spoon he found in the kitchen. More specifically, it was Alberto Giacometti’s sculpture Spoon Woman (1926), which might appear to be a giant spoon from afar, but abstractly depicts a woman’s neck, bust, and nipped-in waist at the top, then curves into wide, spoon-like “hips.” Perhaps Lagerfeld thought it looked like a circle skirt. A cast of the sculpture sits in the collection of the Guggenheim Museum; its website reports that Giacometti was inspired by “ceremonial spoons of the African Dan culture, in which the bowl of the utensil can be equated with a woman’s womb.”

Alberto Giacometti, Femme Cuillère (Spoon Woman). 1926, Bronze.
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York

You can see the spoon’s influence in many of Lagerfeld’s couture looks: Skirtsuits are belted high and tight to emphasize the curve of the hips, while a few gowns arc dramatically away from the body. For the most part, the torso and shoulders are fitted or a bit shrunken; the tweed jackets in particular mimic the squared-off lines of Giacometti’s bust. It’s a classic, womanly style that also happens to be quite flattering, which Chanel’s customers will no doubt appreciate.

The Mirrored Set
The mirrored set was inspired by Coco Chanel’s mirrored staircase in her atelier at 31 Rue Cambon. Large vases of calla lilies were perched on plinths, while models walked around the scene in silvery pumps that echoed the flooring, only extending their legs that much more.

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The Belts
Nearly every single outfit on the Chanel runway today was accessorized with a medium-width, square buckled belt. Worn between the models’ proper waists and an empire line, the belts served to further accentuate the flared hips on many outfits.

The Feathers
The show closed with a section of evening ensembles, each just brimming with ostrich and marabou feathers. Look for Ine Neefs’s silvery plunging neckline dress with a pink pouf skirt on the red carpets this awards season.

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The Bride
Who better to be the bride in Chanel’s kaleidoscopic set of calla lilies than its own Lily? Lily-Rose Depp closed the show in tiered pink ruffles, appearing again to take a bow arm in arm with Lagerfeld.
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by Regine
source : vogue.com

 

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